Friday, 30 January 2015

Weekend in Leon

After the busy week visiting the various farms, I decided to take the bus to León to relax. León is the second largest city in Nicaragua (after Managua) and has a population of 200,000. The city is named after León, Spain and is one of the oldest cities in Nicaragua, having been founded in 1524.
The Cathedral of León is the biggest cathedral in Central America. It's architectural style is Neoclassical and it was completed in 1814.






On Sunday I hiked up Cerro Negro, a 728M volcano. It is the youngest volcano in Central America, and is still active, last erupting in 1999. Born in 1850, it has erupted over 20 times since. 





After the 2 hour hike to the top, there was only one fast way down... by board! Was pretty scary as the drop was very steep, but glad I did it as was very exhilarating. 











Friday, 23 January 2015

More coffee farms...and a hospital visit to make it exciting

On Thursday we headed up to Waslala, 115km from Matagalpa but as it's an unsealed road, it takes 3 hours. These were up there with the most horrible 3 hours ever as I was super sick, and the drive was very, very bumpy. On arrival at the co-op, a doctor came to see me and said my blood pressure was very low and that I needed to come to the hospital. He put me on a drip for 3 hours and then let me go, this really helped! Must have been something I ate, the food has been a little on the dodgy side so doesn't surprise me. Un-ideal, but had to have happened to make the trip memorable. The hospital was a small concrete building, and no one spoke english so they had a local nun who spoke english come and translate for the doctor. A nun having to ask me if I'm pregnant has to be in the top 5 awkward chats of all time.

Waslala was badly affected by the Nicaraguan revolution in the 1980's, but since then has been (kind of) rebuilt. The town has electricity, television and cell phone service, but few of the outlying communities in this area have electricity or running water.





This morning we visited another co-op, who then took us to a couple of farms that provide cacao and coffee to them. One farm had 2 hectares of land, and produce 5 x 49kg sacks of coffee and 29 x 49kg sacks of cacao in the harvesting season. Again, all in Spanish, but Nora is able to translate some of it for me.

Cacao drying





Cacao on the tree 







What a crazy week. Have learnt a lot about growing and harvesting coffee, and cacao. Have visited a vast numbers of areas, and done a whole lot of kms in the car. I am ready to get back to Managua (didn't think I would ever be saying that!) and plan where I am going to go this weekend.

Week two - Finally seeing a coffee farm!

It doesn't feel like it's only Wednesday afternoon as have already "worked" a good 40 plus hours this week! On Monday I was picked up at 7am, followed by picking up the two Japanese customers that we were taking up to the coffee plantations. They both work for Mitsubishi, who trade coffee, along with hundreds of other things. 

After a couple hours driving we got to Sebaco, Ecom's largest mill in Nicaragua. Here they have a lot of of land (not sure how much exactly) which is used to air dry the coffee that they buy from farmers. There is also a cupping lab, where every coffee that comes in is tested for quality and graded. This then determines the price that it's sold for. 












 We then drove for another couple hours to La Virgen Finca, one of four farms owned by Henry Huick. This was a chance to see my first coffee plant! The farm tour was fun, we drove in john deer quad bikes and at some points the path was very sketchy! After the tour we got the chance to cup some of the coffee that we had seen, I think we must have tried around 50 coffees. It was interesting talking to Henry about the work he does with the farms and the community. They house all of their full time workers, have a school for the children, and feed them three meals a day (although this is apparently a government requirement). 







The school




Cupping session


Cupping session
Riding the farm's bull

That evening we stayed in Matagalpa, which is the capital of the department of Matagalpa, and has a population of 150,000. The city lies 700M above sea level, and with its warm temperatures and high rain fall, the area surrounding it is perfect for growing coffee. Coffee is Nicaragua's largest exported product, so this area is well looked after.

On Tuesday we went to the mill, where we cupped around 70 different types of coffee and learnt how to grade them. I was then picked up by Henrik, who had two clients from Housten with him, and we drove to Jinotega. This is another coffee producing region. We saw three farms, and then started back to Managua in the evening, getting home around 10pm.

Lining up to weight their pickings from the day
Farm visit featuring armed guard

On Wednesday I was picked up at 4am for us drive up to Ocotal, the capital of the Nueva Segovia region. This region sits at an altitude of 500M above sea level and is very close to the Honduras border. We finally got to Ocotal around 9am, and then had another hours drive to actually get to the co-op we were visited. We were very much the middle of nowhere! The point of going all this way is that the team I was travelling were there to give a presentation on sustainability, the NYC market (which coffee is traded on) and what Ecom can help them with. This is the first year that they are buying coffee from this co-op, so they want to make sure that they are educated enough to understand why it is good to sell with them. Everything was in spanish, so I kinda just sat there and listened to any words I knew! After this we visited a smaller farm with the SMS team, and then headed back down to Matagalpa. 

Full on couple days driving all over the northern highlands, but really worth seeing these different areas and meeting lots of coffee farmers. The driving is pretty entertaining, with whoever can drive the fastest being in front. Things I have learnt; If you are overtaking on a corner, just toot so any car coming round the bend will know, use your horn excessively, as well as your lights, and if you do get pulled over, just say you have a foreigner in the car and you will be let off!

Tomorrow we head to Waslala, a very small provincial town in the matagalpa region, around 3 hours away by unsealed road.


Oh, the food. The staple diet here is rice and beans. It even has it's own name; Gallo Pinto. It's eaten for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Sometimes chicken or an egg is added just to change it up. I have been following this diet the last two days and I can't say it's my favourite local cuisine ever! 

Sunday, 18 January 2015

Weekend in Granada

Even though I was very sceptical and nervous about catching the chicken bus (see below for why it is called this) and going to Granada alone, I am so, so glad I went. It has to be one of the most picturesque and relaxing cities I've had the chance to visit. Totally worth the 75 cents and the grey hairs I gained getting there.


Definition: Central America Chicken Buses: The term “Chicken bus” refers to Central America’s myriad fleets of public buses, typically retired American school buses painted in flamboyant colours and designs. Chicken bus fares are cheap, though for a reason. The nickname allegedly derives from the passengers themselves, who are packed together like chickens (sometimes as many as four to a seat). However, the occasional feathered traveler may also be seen!


It was quite the experience really! There were no seats left when I stuck my hand out as it drove past (no bus stops) but as I was the only tourist on board, the driver let me sit on the dashboard. This was the ideal spot. I was able to see the beautiful countryside between Managua and Granda, including the amazing Masaya volcano which I want to visit. I also didn't have any creepy men half sitting on me, and had some breeze from the driver's window, success!

The hotel I had booked was on the pricier side (US$70, compared with $10ish for a hostel) but I decided to splurge as it had a pool. This ended up being the best decision yet as it was so hot and the pool was beautiful. There were also only a handful of rooms which meant it was super quiet, even thought it was right in front of the Parque Central (main square). 




There were lots of things to see, but I just wanted to relax after the busy week. I walked around to see some of the gorgeous old churches and then set myself up by the pool with my spanish books, and a mojito. Ideal Saturday. Dinner was at a local restaurant, and I had a perfectly cooked steak with grilled pineapple on top. Great combo. The meat here is delicious and super cheap. I only spoke in Spanish the entire meal, woohoo. I was eating alone though obviously, so the only chat I had was with the waiter. 


On Sunday I went for a walk down to the lake, and then found a cute little specialty coffee house to have breakfast and some much needed coffee in. Breakfast was polenta topped with scrambled eggs, avocado and a sauce made from grilled tomatoes, basil and onions. The owner spoke some english so was able to tell me a bit about the area and farm where the coffee came from. 




Granada Cathedral



Iglesia Guadalupe- originally built in 1624


Iglesia Xalteva






Iglesia Merced - Build in around 1534, making it one of the oldest churches in Central America